One Week! (Or what was supposed to be)

What a whirlwind of work. I’ve been thrown right into the thick of things and can’t believe I’ve only been here a week. It feels like months. I have way more responsibility than I think most 22 year old, new graduates are given, but it is making me learn and make decisions at a rapid pace. Already I’ve had to deal with angry parents (so far just people that usually come in and complain), registering students, figuring out an electronic accounting system for the school (while also teaching the administrators how to use a computer), creating two websites (one in English and one in French), a brochure for potential donors, and researching possible donors in Cameroon…Oh yeah, and school starts in a week and a half and I haven’t started my lesson plans yet. Still don’t know what my schedule is going to be once school starts; all I know is I’m in charge of the computer science classes…but possibly English and French too? I’m leaving it for next week with everything else going on. I’ll let you all know when I’ve finished the websites. I’d love opinions, advice, and suggestions cause I’m on my own in terms of what should be on it. And this way you can see what this school is all about (really just a private elementary school).

As for social life here: I again have come upon an extremely kind and generous family. Not as well off as my family in Senegal, but they are just as hospitable if not more. There are 5 girls (starting at 14 yrs) and the youngest is a 3-year-old boy. It goes: Candice (14), Daryl (yes, girl, 12), twins Sabrina & Iness (9), Christiana (7), and Aharian (3). For the moment we also have another older boy (Arnold, 14 yrs) who is the son of a friend, 2 little boys who are some relation, and the ~18ish yr old mason (we call him Frankie) living with us. Maman Solange is still young, only 35 (with 6 kids I find this to be quite the feat)! And while David is considered my boss, we get along very well and he seems very open to my suggestions for the school. He’s really easy-going. We have already had some pretty deep conversations about life here; each of them giving me further insight into Cameroonian culture and mentality.

Mealtimes are different than in the US or in Senegal. Here the only real meal is once you return home from work/school around 4:00 PM. My family doesn’t typically eat breakfast, they have a little something around 10:00 AM. Then in the early afternoon you go grab a snack, like a couple grilled plantains and “prunes” (these are not what we eat in the US, they’re pretty bitter and I’m not sure what they really are). When I get home from work Maman has some big thing cooked up; typically a starch (potatoes, manioc, or rice) and sauce similar to Senegal. Sometimes we have had chicken, fish, and guinea fowl in the sauce. I was a little freaked out when I was driving with David the other day and passed by a man selling bush rats…we stopped to ask the price and were about to buy them for our dinner, but they ended up being too expensive. Hahaha, I almost ate rat for dinner!

We had an AIESEC party last Saturday night (now one week ago) to send off one of the interns from this past summer. I met a bunch of AIESECers and two other interns, the one leaving, from Holland, and one who will be around for another month, from Germany. I was so impressed by how much each of the AIESECers took a turn at coming over and talking to me. I felt very welcomed. I’m excited for our first meeting this weekend. I’ve been asked how Cameroonian young people are in comparison to my friends in Senegal. I feel like this is hard to tell. From my first impression, they seem to have a greater understanding of “Western” expectations and culture. After having had so many students come they’re more aware of how things appear to someone from a developed country. The girls were also a lot more open than in Senegal. Again, this could be because that is part of what it means to be in AIESEC, you do your best to include international students. The openness also extended into the realm of conversation. I’ve had some conversations with my friends Arneaut and Guy about things that are more taboo in Senegal, i.e. HIV/AIDS problems, sex/promiscuity, etc. A lot of people are Christian, so this adds another element: you often see people sitting at a café drinking a HUGE beer (think 40s).

Obviously I could keep making observances but I need to move on to my next blog and update from this past weekend (I started this at the beginning of last week and never got around to finishing it).

Until the next!

La Tristesse #2 – New Title: The Deceased

I've already talked about death. Sorry to bring it up again. If you followed my blogs before you'll know my other one was called La Tristesse, hence the title.

When you think of culture and how it manifests itself funerals are usually at the end of the list, if at all. I have been here a week and already two people that David knows have died. While morbid, the opportunity to attend one of the funeral ceremonies was a chance to experience this facet of Cameroonian life. At the time I was not really given a choice in my participation (especially considering that one ceremony lasted 5 hours!), however I appreciate the value of being there. Aside from offering his condolences, David explained to me that the particular funeral we went to was a way to network for our NGO. I am still unclear as to how exactly David is related to this man, but Mr. Ambroise Mvogo Enama was the Minister of Planning and Development. A powerful man to a small NGO, he apparently had helped our school get funding at one point. As a result of being deeply entrenched in the government (after being an ambassador in several countries), there were several influential people present to pay their respects, thereby making the funeral a place “to be seen.”

Yesterday I went to the first part of the event, the typical funeral proceedings. This followed much of what happens in the US at a catholic church, although this was in the courtyard of the hospital. At the end there were a couple of hysterical women and children wildly keening. I also noted that apparently for large events an “African print” is chosen and made available to all family and close friends. You can then bring it to your tailor to have a matching outfit with countless others participating in the event. So there were about 20 men and women wearing matching outfits. It was cute. Following the mass there was a vigil and another 2 hour mass at a different location. Thank God I didn’t need to go to that.

Today was much more dramatic. So after a morning NGO conglomerate seminar on HIV/AIDS David and I departed for the second day of “activities.” This was held on the outskirts of Yaounde in a cleared forested area. Since this was a family of means huge tents half-circled the clearing and hundreds of plastic chairs were set up underneath. In the middle was a tent engulfed in fake flowers and situated for the placement of the open casket. Speakers were set up around the perimeter, all managed by the central music system: an ancient desktop computer hauled in for the occasion.

As people slowly filtered in to the area 8 women [dressed in the matching outfits I was talking about] covered in vines and leaves started dancing and singing/blowing a whistle in the middle. They each carried a branch of leaves which they used similarly to pom poms. Their dance was part of the traditional welcome for the dead body and the family. About halfway through this process 3 men sat down at their hollowed wood drums and proceeded to rock out in coordination with the dancing and singing women. Once the funeral party arrived the intensity of the dancing, singing, and drumming heightened. After about ten minutes of this, people would go to the middle and say a few words in Bamilike (I’m not sure this is the language, either way, the family’s ethnic group’s language). Sometimes it was call and response, other times it seemed a reflection (again, speculation since I have no clue what was being said).

Following this was the mens’ turn to do a dance/chase of the male descendants of the deceased. This occurred around the tents with the accompaniment of the drumming. When they stopped in the center next to the casket, it became time to ask the village chief, “how did this man die?” The chief then had to respond with a short description of his life and then conclusion of the cause of his death [some long-term illness]. Only then did the priests take over and go through an entire mass again, only it was mostly in the ethnic language I didn’t understand. I am somewhat ashamed to say (but not really), I plopped on my sunglasses and took little five-minute naps throughout this part.

In closing, the family and a big cheese Minister gave eulogies. The body was then taken right past the corner of the tents and laid in the ground. By this time the women dancers from the beginning had started their whooping and singing; I guess as a final touch to the whole process.

After not having had the chance to eat all day plus being the new white American diplomat to FAPEFE (my NGO) I got home exhausted. Tomorrow, I’m sure more adventures will come: church and an AIESEC party. Can’t wait to meet the others! I’m also moving to David’s house to stay with his family until the apartment is finished (if ever). More changes. Love to all.

First day in Cameroon!

And here starts my tale of living Cameroon:

Already, I’m in deep and feel the excitement and love of African culture that captures my passion and reassures me of why I chose to come here. I arrived safely in Yaounde last night and was welcomed by six Cameroonians, including the principal of the school I will be working for. My first impression was my surprise at how smoothly the airport process went. No Cameroonians grabbing my bag or hassling me for a taxi. No hectic customs. I didn’t even have to wait in line (although this was facilitated by a former AIESEC member who now works at the airport)! Off to a good start.

Last night I stayed at another AIESECer’s apartment right near campus. She is out of town for the week, but once she returns I will most likely be staying with her for another month. I’m interested to see how this goes considering her apartment is really just a room that fits a bed and a teeny bathroom (toilet+shower), no exaggeration. For the moment I am perfectly content with my living situation.

I visited the school where I will be working. Now that I am here I have a much better idea of what is going on. The school is private, and mostly run by the principal, my contact David. As a private school it is organized under the auspice of the NGO, Fondation des Femmes Actives pour la Promotion de l’Education de la Femme et de l’Enfant (FAPEFE). They are delighted to have me join them because of the publicity it will garner and hopefully encourage more students to register at the school. I will be teaching computer classes. How with only 3 computers (of questionable workability)? Of this I am unsure. I may be teaching some English and even French…Oh la la. On top of this David has complete confidence that I will be able to tell them how to run their school better; I have been promoted to “manager of the school” in one day! And then the grand challenge: finding American sponsors/foundations to help support student fees so that those in need can be educated in the school. All in a days work. So the plan tomorrow is to roll up my sleeves and get cracking.

Observations:

Climate – Can you believe that I wore a sweatshirt today?!? Yup, my random fear was confirmed…I barely packed any “cool weather” clothes and it was 70 degrees. Perhaps I shouldn’t get too worked up since it is the rainy season and there is at least one sprinkle a day. Which leads me to the landscape: looking good. The terrain and vegetation is much more how I imagined “wild Africa” to be like (before being completely thrown off in Senegal). Yaounde is set in rolling hills very close to each other: all you mountain bikers would have a field day with these crazy climbs. And green is everywhere. Despite the million plus people living here, Africa fights back with its overgrowth of trees and plants. The rich red clay dirt is a drastic contrast to the lush green and is often completely rutted out on unpaved roads, creating quite the obstacle course in a car. In my opinion, everything is much nicer to look at [than in Senegal].

People – Starting with my initial experience at the airport, I am drawing the conclusion that Cameroonians are much less pushy and in-your-face than Senegalese. This is not to say the downtown boutique sellers don’t love a good round of bartering, but it is rather nice to not feel quite so confronted by everyone passing you by. I do however miss the formalities of small talk before starting any conversation; most people just stick to a quick “bonjour” and head nod while I have the urge to say “asalaah maalekum. Nanga def?” every time I have an interaction with someone. Weird how my French is so intertwined with this exchange.

Food – Last night I got my first taste of Cameroonian cuisine: grilled fish. MMM yum, I can live with this! I dug into my whole fish (yeah, head, eyeballs, spine, tail, the WHOLE thing) with gusto. As my AIESEC people asked how it was I replied with “I’m going to eat this every day!” I got laughs all around as they explained that, “good thing, since that’s all anyone eats!” Their goal for me by the end of my stay: eat the entire fish except the spinal cord. Yup, that means crunching down on the head, not to mention the very present eyeballs…Katie, I’m not sure I’ll be able to do it. Breakfast is still the same: instant coffee with lots of powdered milk and sugar, and a baguette. Today I had more fish only with a delicious sauce (a little less heavy on the oil than in Senegal) and fried plantains (and I forgot to mention the cassava I ate with the fish last night).

Hope that gives you all an idea of what things are like for me. I am safe and sound and ready for what lies ahead. Sending my love across the ocean, I can feel your thoughts and prayers, Thanks.